Secret Service Dissects Derby's Newest Steakhouse The Office In Green Lane

The Office steakhouse opened its doors at the beginning of December last year and Your Spy was eager to give it a try.

Although there are many restaurants and pubs in Derby city centre that offer steaks, there are few that are specialists.

Your spy visited the restaurant, which is based in Green Lane in the city’s St Peter’s Quarter, at around 7pm on a Saturday evening.

On arrival, your spy was disappointed with how empty the bar area was on the ground floor but hoped there would be a few more diners upstairs.

The host was friendly and welcoming and sat us down at a table in the dining area but there were no other customers upstairs and the atmosphere felt a bit flat.

It is January though and lots of people are on diets, short of ready cash to eat out - or both.

Your spy ordered a Bloom gin and elderflower tonic and my companion ordered a pint of Stowford Press cider.

The cider arrived a short time later, but the host explained to your spy that the restaurant did not have Bloom gin in stock so I asked for Hendricks instead.

Your spy was given a double shot of gin instead of a single because of the inconvenience but received a lemon wedge in the drink and not a slice of cucumber as is customary with Hendricks.

To start we ordered the whole baked camembert with toasted bread, chutney and grapes which cost £8.95.

The camembert was baked well and the chutney was the perfect accompaniment

And for main course we both opted for the 12oz rib-eye steak, one cooked medium and the other medium-rare. They came with mushrooms, onion rings, triple-cooked chips and half a grilled tomato.

Your spy chose a stilton and white wine sauce while my companion chose a mushroom and port wine sauce.

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The camembert, which had been baked with garlic and herbs, was really tasty and the chutney was a lovely accompaniment. There wasn’t enough bread for your spy and there was plenty of cheese leftover.

The main courses arrived a short time after the starter plates had been cleared away. Your spy would probably have preferred a slightly longer break between courses.

The steak came with triple-cooked chips, mushrooms, tomato and onion rings

The steak took your spy by surprise because of its size. It really was a big portion for the price. There was an ample amount of chips and plenty of sauce to go with the meal.

It was certainly filling and your spy couldn’t complain about the amount of food that was on the plate. The chips were cooked perfectly.

Your spy’s companion said his steak was cooked really well and enjoyed the sauce that they’d ordered from the selection. In fact, it was described as one of the best steaks in Derby.

Your spy's steak was slightly undercooked in the middle, however.

The main courses were very big in size and well worth the price tag

We were both very full but wanted to try out one of the restaurant’s desserts. Your spy noticed that there were no desserts listed on the menu but thought there would be a separate menu to look at.

The host cleared the plates away but didn’t offer us a menu and assumed we didn’t want a pudding by saying “you’re okay for dessert, aren’t you?”. We quickly corrected him and said we’d like to share one.

There was just one offering which the host described as a brioche and cranberry pudding so we said we’d give it a go.

The pudding was too heavy and dense for your spy

Your spy wasn’t sure what to expect of the dessert, not knowing much about it, but it looked pleasing when it arrived and was decorated on the top with edible flowers.

We were offered some cream to go with it and dug straight in. Although the first taste was pleasant, it was very heavy and the texture was dense.

Your spy could only manage a few spoonful and my companion felt the same. It needed more moisture or should have been slightly smaller in size so it wasn’t too heavy after such a big steak. And an entire camembert.

The Bill:

Stowford Press - £3.95

Hendricks and tonic - £5.90

Baked camembert - £8.95

Rib-eye 12oz - £21.95

Rib-eye 12oz - £21.95

Blue stilton sauce - £3.50

Mushroom sauce - £3.50

Dessert - £5.95

Total - £75.65

It was unfortunate that the restaurant lacked atmosphere because of the lack of customers. Although there was music playing in the background, your spy still felt the need to talk quietly because of how little background noise there was.

The décor is very clean and modern though and the owners have clearly put a lot of thought into how they want the restaurant to look and feel.

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With a few more customers and a little more finesse, your spy thinks this restaurant has the potential to be the go-to place for a steak in the city.

It has only been open a few weeks and it seems that a few creases need to be ironed out before it steaks its claim.

The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Sunday from 6pm to 11pm and can be contacted on 01332 340308.

*The Derby Telegraph makes undercover visits to restaurants, takeaways and cafes with a view to providing a fair, balanced and accurate report on customer service and the food on offer. Our hope is that, for the sake of both the business owner and the customer, we can report positively about the places we visit. However if our experience is not 100 per cent positive then we are duty-bound to report on exactly what we find.

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Secret Service dissects Derby's newest steakhouse - The Office in Green Lane
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